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19-Dec-2016 22:46

And Thelma O’Brien, the B&B owner in the north of the province who sounded like she was from Donegal, and told the Cork man, “I could listen to you all day, bhoy”. St John’s, the island’s capital is a working port, so not a very pretty one, but it’s got bucket loads of rustic charm.Here they take their live music and drinking just as seriously as their fishing.Instead we get lobsters, a sea cave, a waterfall and fresh uni sushi, a Japanese delicacy, presented on the paddle of a kayak.We still needed lunch though, and headed for the unique experience of Ferryland Lighthouse Picnics.After a 1km trail onto a headland, lunch is served in a basket, with a blanket al fresco.You can sit anywhere you like on the headland, and watch for whales while you eat.Today the scenic coast road boasts “whales, trails and Irish tales,” before looping back to the city.At Cape Broyle, we stopped for yet another aquatic adventure, with Stan Cook Sea Kayaking.

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The tone of our trip was set upon landing in St John’s, the province’s eastern seaboard capital.Views down to the city and its colourful “jelly bean” houses are spectacular.The Victorian houses in the downtown area, painted in red, blue, green, yellow, were initially constructed as temporary accommodation after the Great Fire of 1892, started, apparently, by a Mrs O’Leary in her cow shed.About 20 km north of the city, is Cape Spear, home to the oldest surviving lighthouse in the province.

This rugged spot is the most easterly point in North America – next stop Ireland.

Newfoundland (pronounced New-fun-land by locals) feels like Ireland 20 years ago, when people left their doors unlocked, hitchhiked without fear, had time to stop and talk to one another. Newfoundland has it’s own time zone, two and a half hours behind GMT.



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